The Origins Of Everyday Thing - Underwear

Early Underwear

The ancient Egyptians sometimes wore loincloths. The Romans also wore underwear. Both Roman men and women wore a loincloth or shorts called subligaculum. Women also wore a band of cloth or leather around their chest called a strophium.

During the Middle Ages men word linen shorts called braies but women did not wear knickers until the 19th century. Their only underwear was a long linen garment called a shift, which they wore under their dress. From the 16th century women wore corsets made with whalebone.

                                      Early Roman Underwear
19th Century Underwear
In the 19th century underwear became much more elaborate.Where does the word does the word pants come from? It is derived from a character in Italian comedy called Pantalone. He wore garments that came down to his ankles (when most men wore ones that came to the knee). In 18th century England they were called pantaloons. In the 19th century the word became shortened to pants. In Britain pants came to mean long drawers that covered the whole leg. The garments worn over them came became known as trousers.

The word drawers was invented because underwear was drawn on. Where does the word knickers come from? It comes from a novel called History of New York by Diedrich Knickerbocker, supposedly a Dutchman living in New York (it was actually written by Washington Irving). In Britain the illustrations for the book showed a Dutchman wearing long, loose fitting garments on his lower body. When men wore loose trousers for sport they were sometimes called knickerbockers. However womens underwear were soon called knickerbockers too. In the late 19th century the word was shortened to knickers.

                                       19 century underwear
In the USA women's underwear are called panties, which is obviously a diminutive of pants.At the beginning of the 19th century women still wore a long nightie-like garment under their dress but it was now called a chemise not a shift. However after about 1800 they also wore drawers. Sometimes they came to below the knee or sometimes they were longer garments with frills at the bottom called pantalettes. However by the 1830s only girls not women wore pantalettes.

Today we still say a pair of knickers or panties. That is because in the early 19th century women's underwear consisted to two separate legs joined at the waist. They really were a 'pair'.At first women's drawers were usually very plain but in the late 19th century they were decorated with lace and bands. In the Winter women often wore woollen knickers and woollen vests.

In the 19th century women's underwear were sometimes called bloomers. Elizabeth Miller invented loose trousers to be worn by women. The idea was promoted by Amelia Bloomer from 1849 and they became known as bloomers. In time long underwear became known as bloomers.
By the late 19th century in Britain men's underwear were called pants. Men also wore vests. Some men wore combinations, pants and vest in one garment.

20th Century Underwear
In the 19th century women's underwear was usually open between the legs but in the 20th century closed knickers replaced them.
Meanwhile in 1913 Mary Crosby invented the bra. She used two handkerchiefs joined by ribbon.
In the 19th century knickers came down to the knee. In the 1920s they became shorter, down to the mid-calf. By the 1940s and 1950s many women wore briefs. Men's underwear also became shorter. The word drawers went out of use and they became known as underpants or pants. Elastic waists were introduced and boxer shorts and y-fronts went on sale.

Now lets look at the time line of Underwear

c 100 AD Roman men and women wear shorts called subligaculum. Women also wear a band of leather or cloth around their chest called a strophium or mamilare.

13th Century Men begin to wear linen shorts called braies. Women wear a nightie like garment called a shift or chemise under their dress. However women do not wear knickers.

1600 Many women wear a frame of wire or whalebone called a farthingale under their dress. The cheaper version was called a bum roll. It was a padded roll worn around the waist. Wealthy women wear silk stockings.

1800 Women begin to wear knickers for the first time. At first they are called drawers because they are drawn on.

1860s Some women begin to wear coloured drawers and petticoats although white is still popular.

1880s In Britain drawers for women are now called knickers and men's underwear is called pants. Men also wear vests or sometimes combinations, pants and vest in one garment.

1900 Some women are so poor they have to make their knickers from sacks used to hold food like flour.

1910 Knickers and stockings are first made of rayon.

1913 The modern bra is invented by Mary Crosby who uses two handkerchiefs joined by a ribbon.

1920s Knickers become shorter. They rise from the knee to the mid-calf.

1935 Y fronts are invented.

1939 Nylon stockings are first made.

1940s Fashionable women wear briefs. However in Britain clothes are rationed from 1941-1949. During World War II women sometimes make their knickers from parachute silk.

1959 Tights (pantyhose) are invented.

1964 The wonderbra is invented.

1968 The wonderbra is introduced to Britain.

1974 The thong is invented.

1990s Thongs become popular in Britain.